I know I’ve written a couple of stories previously about
travelling from the northern rivers of the Norfolk Broads to the southern
rivers and some might find yet another account boring, but to us it is a
different adventure every time we make the journey.
Saturday lunchtime started with a run up to Horning to get
some diesel, from a small boatyard where it is quite tricky at times to
moor. However, on this occasion, there
was no obstacle course to negotiate, just some clever manoeuvring by the
skipper and 'kerching' – lots of notes handed over!
This was my first anxiety out of the way! The next one was going to be, as always,
whether we would have enough room under the pesky bridges at Great Yarmouth
(popularly known as Yarmite locally). We
had planned this journey to coincide with spring tides, which give low lows and
high highs but tide times are only predictions and it could all be different on
the day, as we have found to our cost in the past!
We had a pleasant journey down the Bure, cruising slowly with
the tide and under the bridge at Acle (plenty of room there), spotting the
Wherry Ardea moored at the Bridge Inn.
A number of boats passed us on the river, obviously in a
hurry to get to Yarmite but we stuck to our plan, although we did seem to be
getting ahead of ourselves when we reached Stokesby so decided to moor at
Stracey windmill for half an hour to lower the radar arch and make final
checks, as well as stocking up on biscuits for the weekend!
Shortly after setting off we were passed by a river cruiser
which is very familiar to us, having watched her sail in most of the regattas
for the last few years. Her mast was
down and her skipper was happily going down with the tide. We exchanged greetings as he passed.
I always have a sense of relief when I see the mud banks
appearing at the banks of the river, as this means the tide is definitely going
to be low enough for us but I was happy to see the height board which showed in
excess of 12ft headroom. No worries
then!
The tide was still flowing out very fast and there was a
hire boat fairly close behind us which we knew wouldn’t be able to stop if we
had to give way for any reason and, sod’s law, as we approached the first
bridge there was a river cruiser struggling through the bridge, closely
followed by a privately owned motor cruiser and another hire boat!
At this stage I signalled to the boat behind us to back off,
as we had to hold in the river to allow these boats through. Normally it would be up to the boats coming
against the tide to give way as they have more control but as the river at the
bridges is quite narrow, and the two bridges are close together it would have
been too much to expect them to give way.
A good bit of manoeuvring (for the second time that day) by
the skipper and it was our turn to negotiate the dreaded bridges. It was obvious that height wasn’t going to be
a problem and I didn’t need to keep a look-out but the tide was obviously
running late as it was still racing out, well after predicted low water – you
never can tell!
We were amazed, as we passed the famous yellow post, to see
a mud bank behind it, which we had never seen before, proving how low the tide
was that day.
As we started across Breydon Water the sun was coming
through the clouds and once again I got that feeling of well-being which I
always get when we come “down south”.
Breydon Water holds no fears for us (I used to sail there) and as we
pushed across fairly fast to make the most of the light, we passed the river
cruiser who had passed us earlier. We
offered him a tow but he said he was ok – although he did say in the pub later
that if I’d mentioned the large gin and tonic which would have been poured for him,
he would have accepted!
We had a beer and G&T respectively to celebrate the bad
part of the trip (the bridges) being behind us!
We were aiming for Cantley and The Reedcutter (ex Red House)
pub but started to get a little concerned as we passed the Berney Arms and
Reedham to see very busy moorings.
As we came up to Cantley it was obvious that there were a
lot of boats moored, mainly tall masted river cruisers but, in the failing
light, we saw one space where a couple of fishermen were sitting. As we came towards the mooring I went up to
the bow and shouted to the fishermen that we had to come in as we had no other
option. They shouted back that they were
packing up and would help us in, for which we were very grateful.
When we had secured mooring lines, the skipper thanked the
fishermen and in chatting they said they couldn’t believe that we were planning
to put a 33ft boat into a 30ft space!!
Perhaps it was the alcohol which made us brave!! I took some photos in the morning …..
A bit of supper and then a pleasant couple of hours were
spent in the pub where we met up with the chap from the river cruiser and his
family. An early night as we were quite
tired after a busy day.
Woke up to a sunrise over the sugar factory (known as “Cantley Castle”) and the sounds of activity on
some of the boats. When we emerged to
chat with the boat owners we discovered that there was going to be a race from
Cantley to Coldham Hall that day – the Cecil Howard Memorial Trophy race –
which we had never heard of before.
This is where I need to refer to a previous blog – “Going
south” where I gave an account of our ‘interaction’ with a river cruiser by the
name of Wandering Rose. After our
experiences last year, I jokingly told one of the crew that we would steer
clear of them this year!
Hahaha – couldn’t believe it when I saw the boat moored in
front of us – yes, it was Wandering Rose!
The owner/skipper (who wasn’t able to sail her last year and trustingly
allowed friends to use her) told us that he was short of crew for this race and
would we like to help out.
We thought about it whilst I got coffee and biscuits for him
and his two crew members who had arrived by then (we knew them both) and
decided to do it. We were promised a
lift back to our boat after the race as we had a berth booked at Brundall that night.
Quick grab of life jackets, water, money and cameras and we
were on board and out on the river! The
rig looked quite complicated to us novices but the skipper gave us some quick
training on what we had to do and then we were off – there were three or four
starts and we were in the last one so were at the back of the pack of about
twelve boats. Something to do with
handicaps but to us it all sounded as complicated as the rig!
It was obvious that I wasn’t going to be able to take any
photographs, as I had initially hoped, as we were kept busy tacking up the
river, initially against the tide but then when it turned the wind dropped and
it was a gentle sail up to Coldham Hall for a couple of hours – very
enjoyable.
We had a drink and substantial lunch at the pub and then it
was time for trophy presentation! We
were surprised to be awarded a third place and a very tasteful cup but then
even more surprised to be told that, after a ‘recount’, we had second place and
were awarded a very strange trophy!
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Owner/skipper and trophy! |
Shortly after we boarded a river cruiser to head back to
Cantley, under power this time, and enjoyed the trip sitting on the bow. The ancient skipper of this boat, with a
cackle of laughter, told me I had to be foredeck tottie which was a first for
me and made me laugh as I was probably older than him!!
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Our lift back to Cantley |
Then it was a leisurely trip up to Brundall to find our
berth which was to be home to our boat for four nights before we set off back
to Cantley to watch the Yare Navigation Race next weekend. We were greeted by the fine sight of a hot air balloon floating by.